Special pruning techniques in horticulture | pruning definition in horticulture | methods of pruning in horticulture | types of pruning in horticulture | pruning system in horticulture | objective, principles, benefits and disadvantage of pruning

 SPECIAL PRUNING TECHNIQUE IN HORTICULTURE

Special pruning techniques in horticulture
Special pruning techniques in horticulture

[ music credit :- pxhere ]


It is the correct and judicious removal of parts of the plant such as shoots, spurs, leaves, roots or the cutting of terminal parts etc. to correct or maintain the tree structure and increase its usefulness is called pruning.


• It is made for

♢ make the plant more productive and of quality fruit.


♢ increase the longevity of the tree,


♢ give it a manageable shape e


♢ to get the most out of the garden.


• Pruning is a shredding process and can be used to maintain any desired shaft size.


• Deleting a branch doesn't just remove the stored ones carbohydrates but reduces foliar potential surface as well.


▪ Pruning increases fruit size, nitrogen per growth point. and stimulates growth near the cut.


• Excessive pruning reduces productivity, especially with

young and vigorous trees that may already be developing excessive vegetative growth.


• Wide cuts cause excessive stimulation of the shoots.

close to the cut, while small, well-distributed cuts are made the best stimulus of the whole tree.


• The severity, type and amount of pruning to be performed

a tree depends on the


○ age,


○ existing framework,


○ condition of the bark and wood,


○ Growth characteristics


○ Fruitful bearing of the variety


○ Whether the shaft is permanent or filled


• Pruning is done more frequently during the winter, commonly

known as inactive pruning.


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 Goals of pruning


Check the size of the implant.

• Shape control (structural composition of the plant)

which implies number, position, relative size and corner of the branches.

• Better quality fruit thanks to better light distribution.

• To remove sick, crossed, dry and broken branches.

• Remove non-productive parts to be diverted the energy in those parts that they are able to support fruit.

• Adequate relationship between roots and shoots.

• Regulate the cultivation of fruits.

• Longevity of the tree.

• Possibility of winter insect-parasites, diseases and injuries

they are less.


Pruning principle

• To admit more sunlight, remove unproductive branches that produce little or no fruit and also to keep the plant in proper vigor and vitality and to achieve optimal yields of good quality fruit.


Effect of Pruning




[ image credit by :- Australian Institute of Family Studies ]


■ Increase new vegetative growth In young trees, flowering will be delayed.


■ In old trees there will be vigorous new vegetative growth that will bear fruit.


■ It reduces the support surface and, consequently, the tree remains dwarf, which is compensated by hosting more dwarf trees (because pruning is a dwarfing process)


■ Improvement of fruit size, color and quality.


Pruning systems


1. Plant formation

2. passed out

3. Handling

4. Pruning with a knife.

5. Strong pruning.

6. Rear pruning

7. Neck pruning (mid-foot cut)

8. Pruning of the roots



1. On-site training:

Plant training is done during the initial stage. After three years, this method is not applicable.


a) Tie with stakes


During the windy seasons, the seedlings sway. Therefore, to avoid this, a 10mm thick and 3ft high stick is anchored near the seedling and tied to it.


b) Elimination of the lower branches


To dominate top growth, primary branches 1½ feet high from ground level are removed.


c) Panthal training system


Help the vine climb the swamp with sticks.


d) Formation of wood trees


The lower branches are cut to help the plants gain more height.


2) De-Suckering:

Dematerialism is usually practiced when needed (at least twice a year).


a) Topping


Plant height is maintained, so cross-cultural operations can be easily practiced. Coverage helps stop apical growth.


b) Elimination of water bud suckers


Water suckers being removed aid lateral growth. The plant looks great thanks to the removal of the suckers from the water shoots.


3) Handling:

It has to be done every year.


a) Removal of dead wood


Dead woods and leaves, which can invite unwanted pathogens, must be removed.


b) Thinning of unwanted branches


Unwanted branches mean unproductive and non self-sufficient branches. The leaf area of ​​these branches will not be sufficient to satisfy the photosynthetic needs of the branches.


c) Removal of dead leaves


This pruning method is applicable only to the multi-tiered system. Dead leaves on taller plants can be removed. This will improve a good light crop for the shorter plants in the tiered system.


d) Elimination of water bud suckers


This can be done for up to 7 years. After the seventh year, the water shoots are trained to become a secondary or tertiary branch.


4. Knife pruning:

Knife pruning is generally done once every three years. It takes place during the summer showers and after the harvest. It is done only on branches below the thickness of a pencil.


HORTICULTURAL CROPS:-

Mustard

coriander

Cinnamon

Curry leaf

Turmeric

Clove

Dill (sowa)

Ginger

Fennel

Cumin

Fenugreek

Nutmeg and mace

Cardamon ( Elaichi)

Cinnamon (Daalchinni)

Types of coffee


a. Elimination of cross branches


The intersecting branches are those that come from a side branch and grow towards the center.


B. Removal of dead wood


All dead woods, which invite unwanted pathogens, must be removed.


C. Give a "skirt-like" look


Plants must have free ventilation from below. Therefore, a 1 foot space between the soil surface and the lower parts of the plant is very necessary. This gives the plant a skirt-like appearance.


D. Clearinghouse


The central clearing helps the light to penetrate the stem through the branches. This helps in collecting maximum light which in turn leads to maximum photosynthetic activity and therefore good performance.


5. Intense pruning:

It is also called pole pruning. In this pruning method, all unwanted things above the thickness of the pencil are removed and eventually the size of the plant is reduced. It is important to analyze whether or not intense pruning is necessary. Practical experience is essential in deciding the need for heavy pruning. Pruning should only be done when there is a rich source of carbohydrates. If there are not enough carbohydrates, two follar nutrient sprays 21 days apart are recommended. This spray will indicate the site and pruning unit. This is usually done twenty days before the rain. If it does not rain it is essential to water well pruned plants. This type of pruning is done only three times in the entire life of the plant. A well-kept plantation does not need such pruning. His recovery rate is only 96 to 98.


6. Rear pruning:

This is similar to heavy pruning. It is also known as "going back". The terminal portions of all branches are removed leaving their basal portions intact.


7. Neck pruning (1/2 foot cut):

Collar Pruning
Collar Pruning
[ image credit by :- SnappyGoat.com ]

Carbohydrate resources and rain are a must in case of ½ foot cuts. It is also a very gentle pruning method. There is only a 70 to 80% success rate in this type of pruning. It is performed only during the end of the useful life of the plant.


a. Purpose of regeneration


On older plantations, we cut the old stem at a height of ½ foot above ground level so that it is 45º to the north and the plank mix is ​​scrubbed at 1%. We let the suckers grow to the thickness of a pencil, grafting the buds with good varietal characters to develop. This method helps to regenerate the entire field with a new desirable uniform material and saves 2 years.


B. Purpose of replanting


When the plants have a reduced resource of carbohydrates, regeneration is not recommended and that is why we have opted for over-sowing for which holes are made along the sides of the pre-existing crops and replanting is resumed.


C. Multi-stem system


If there is a dilemma between regeneration or replanting, the multi-stem system is adopted. In this method, 2 to 3 suckers or shoots with different heights and directions are allowed and about 2 or 3 harvests are obtained. Rapid replanting is generally recommended within this period.


8. Root Pruning:


root puring
root purunig

[ image credit :- 
Grade-A Tree Care ]

Root pruning is mainly done to create a stressful situation in plants to reduce / maintain vegetative growth and control flowering and fruiting. But the timing and intensity of pruning vary from crop to crop. As this is a destructive method, special care must be taken during the pruning operation. In guava, citrus and pomegranates to change from season to season this method is used, but in limited quantities it is mainly used on heavy soils rather than light soils.


As chemical growth retardants were widely banned at the beginning of this century, physical methods of reducing tree vigor have become more widely used, including root pruning and trimming. Root pruning is today one of the most popular methods to control the vigor of pears in the southern part of our country and in some foreign countries such as Holland and Belgium. However, to date, the use of root pruning in orchards has been limited, but interest is growing.


■ The goal of root pruning is to cut both fine and large roots to reduce water and nutrient absorption, changing hormonal balance, resulting in an overall reduction in sprout growth. This is similar to Bonsai techniques, but on a larger and more temporary scale, as root pruning is only applied once or twice per season.


■ Root pruning is usually done 4 to 6 weeks before full flowering. If it is too late and close to flowering, root pruning can lead to severe water stress and poor fruit production. Root distribution should be evaluated prior to pruning by digging around the base of some trees. To condition trees for root pruning practice, it should be done annually in spring from a time when the trees are young but have filled their space. Root pruning is commonly applied just inside the herbicide strip at an angle of about 40-45 °. It should be done within 500 or 600mm of the trunk and to a depth of 300-800mm depending on root depth and soil type. Root pruning is effective when the topsoil is shallow, but it doesn't work well in deep, fertile soils.

The distance from the trunk and the depth of pruning are influenced by the vigor level of the tree and the distribution of the roots; key factors that need to be taken into consideration. Pruning can be done on one or both sides of a tree; but unilateral pruning (alternating every year) is considered the least risky.



■ The water stress induced by root pruning is temporary and trees recover within a month, but this period of water stress can significantly delay stem growth. Recovery time is affected by crop load and more success is seen in trees with low crop load. Water stress can also be relieved immediately after root pruning irrigation, but care should be taken here.


a. Plowing


Plowing is generally done on the farm to remove dormant feeder roots. This practice would activate the roots, thus producing new active feeding roots and increasing the absorption of nutrients. It would also help improve the aeration of the plant's root system.


B. Forking


When plants do not respond to the regular course of nutrition and irrigation management, we use this type of pruning. We use a fork to dig the soil to a depth of one foot. As a result, the primary roots are cut off. Cow manure, nutrients and water are added to the soil. Help the plant to form a new root system. Thus, fresh leaves are formed. Plus it's only done once in a lifetime. The soil must be free of nematodes and fungi.




Benefits of pruning


Pruning removes dead, diseased or damaged stems and branches from plants and shrubs. It is important to remove dead plant parts because dead stems tend to attract unwanted insects and harbor diseases. Pruning will also help improve plant health and prevent unwanted growth. To keep your gardens healthy and beautiful, we recommend researching the types of plants and shrubs to identify when it is best to prune them.




Disadvantage of pruning


■ Improper pruning can weaken a tree's structure.


■ Excessive pruning can shorten the life of a tree, affect its natural growth, and cause wounds that do not heal properly.


■ If a tree is improperly pruned, it causes the growth of microorganisms, fungi, fungi and bacteria that can even cause its branches to rot and rot. 

■ Pruning a tree at the wrong time can damage it to a great extent.




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